The composition of a perfume

Flacon parfum

The fragrance industry is divided into several main sectors, fine fragrances, functional fragrances and technical fragrances. Functional perfumery generally includes non-alcoholic or ambient body applications, while technical perfumery is more concerned with cleaning and household products.

In fine perfumery, the alcoholic solution of odorous concentrates provides a more or less concentrated (5-30%) body perfume which can be called eau de senteur, eau de Cologne, eau fraiche, eau de toilette, eau de parfum, perfume extract, or simply perfume.

What is a fragrance concentrate? It is the assembly of natural and/or synthetic raw materials according to a formulation pre-established by the perfumer. The concentrate can sometimes contain solvents such as dipropylene glycol, diethylphthalate, triethylcitrate, as well as preservatives and/or antioxidants. What is a natural raw material? There are three main types of natural raw materials: essential oils, concretes or resinoids and absolutes. After harvesting the plant raw material, it is steam-treated, hydro-distilled or cold-expressed (in the case of citrus fruits) to produce an essential oil. After harvesting the plant or animal raw material, an extraction using volatile solvents which will be eliminated in a second stage makes it possible to provide a concrete or a resinoid. The concrete can be taken back into alcohol to eliminate waxes and fats by cold glazing, filtration and evaporation, to give rise to an absolute or absolute essence.

What is an alcoholic solution? It is denatured alcohol, i.e. made unfit for consumption by adding bitter substances. The most common denaturing compound is Bitrex® (denatonium benzoate), in quantities of less than 0.15%. This synthetic chemical compound was recently approved by Ecocert. The alcohol is either synthetic or of natural origin, produced by fermentation (bioethanol).

During the manufacture of the perfume, the odorant concentrate is weighed, put in solution in denatured alcohol in the presence of demineralised water to lower the alcoholic degree and to limit the too rapid evaporation of the perfume during its application. The addition of colorants or sun filters is possible. The perfume is generally macerated before glazing, filtration and bottling.

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